That's an important point GadgetGav just made, for example in California our lease must be 30 months to qualify for the $2500 state rebate.GadgetGav said:My range estimate was mid to high 60s on a full charge in the winter (around Boston) and now it's mid to high 90s.
Make sure if you take a shorter lease that it still qualifies you for the rebates. Around here it had to be at least 35 months.
No, I didn't freeze. I used the heater as needed and the heated seat. Although the heat in ICE is a free byproduct, the electric heat in the e-Golf is instant which is nice on a short commute. In the 10 min it takes me to get to work, my ICE would have just about warmed up :roll:peralex1 said:Hi, Gadget Gav. How effective is the heating system comparing to ICE? Obviously in ICE that heat is a byproduct and is free, unlike in EV where you have to pay with your range. Did you have to freeze to get those mid 60's range?
The money that's been created through the various quantitive easing schemes has largely gone into bank reserves, not into the general economy. This was intentional to stop more banks failing. In a bank vault, it doesn't cause inflationary pressure and the Fed has a lot of options to stop it causing inflation; raise the reserve requirements, sell bonds, etc. Just because Marc Farber and UBS are saying it's a risk, doesn't make it true... The US economy is very different to places that have experienced hyperinflation. Inflation in the art and mansion markets do not cause hyperinflation in the general economy.cove3 said:In the fullness of time. There's little inflation because the tsunami of money being created all goes to the 1% who don't buy things in the CPI as they already have all the refrigerators, clothing and food they need. There's plenty of inflation in the things they do buy......Stocks, Picasso paintings, Ferraris, houses in the Hamptons etc.
Inflation is like a volcano or earthquake or bankruptcy......pressures build up over a long time, but then explode all at once. As we continue to abuse and finally lose our reserve currency status in the world, it will happen, although it's difficult to know when. Could be 1 year, 2 years, but probably not 5 years.
I have to look into what I am paying for electricity.peralex1 said:I think I was not clear - $299 a month with $0 down after $3000 rebate - so it is $299 not $174. $120 for 1,250 miles sounds very high. Do you mean your entire electrical bill is $120? I currently pay about $0.12 per kwh (just signed up for alternative supplier for $0.0759 guaranteed for 6 month) . Even if you make 3 miles per kwh (i think it should be more like 4 miles) - you should be paying like $50 plus service charge. Unless in CA your energy price is double what we pay in Northeast.
The auto industry is not prepared for this change. Therefore, I expect that the car companies, even Nissan, will obstruct and cause as much uncertainty about third party batteries as they can within the law. They simply want to sell new cars.tom said:EVs are very different than ICE cars because they simply don't break down (e.g. the two LEAFs I have are 100% trouble free and sometimes I am a very aggressive driver). When replacement batteries are available, people will be able to make their EVs last a very long time if they wanted to. The nature of the auto industry is going to change when that day comes.
No doubt the legacy auto industry is going to have a hard time adjusting during this long transition period. The state of the EV industry today somewhat reminds me of the Internet back in 1990-92, by 1993-94 most can see it's going to take off big time (when Mosaic first came out). That day is almost here with electric cars. As soon as people can lease 150-mile-range EVs for $300 per month (w/ $3000 down) the volume will take off big time.miimura said:The auto industry is not prepared for this change. Therefore, I expect that the car companies, even Nissan, will obstruct and cause as much uncertainty about third party batteries as they can within the law. They simply want to sell new cars.tom said:EVs are very different than ICE cars because they simply don't break down (e.g. the two LEAFs I have are 100% trouble free and sometimes I am a very aggressive driver). When replacement batteries are available, people will be able to make their EVs last a very long time if they wanted to. The nature of the auto industry is going to change when that day comes.
A 30kWh Leaf is reportedly coming very soon.tom said:I would definitely pay a bit more for the 30 kWh LEAF or e-Golf.
That lease vs buy decision is lease a new e-Golf vs buy a used Leaf though... they're not the same car. Personally, I had signed up for the Leaf before it was launched but passed when it was actually shown. The e-Golf was the first mid-market electric car I actually liked so until there are used e-Golfs as well, there will be other factors entering the decision (or the buy price will be much higher).tom said:Getting back to the lease vs. buy-used discussion above.
So, given your numbers, we are looking at leasing $300/mo x 24 months = $7,200 vs. buy-used $13,000
If you leased, at the end of two years you don' have a car. If you buy-used, at the end of two years you still have a car that's probably worth $8,000
SfEvR said:On the buy v lease discussion, most people seem to say you shouldn't buy because the cars will have more range in 3-4 years and your resale will be terrible. But, what if you don't plan on getting a new car in 3 years? What if you've always kept your cars for 10+ years before getting a new one? I've always assumed that leasing would be more expensive if you decide to keep the car at the end of the lease than if you buy the car outright from the beginning. Is that not right? I guess my questions is, if one is a buy-and-hold car buyer and the current e-Golf meets their needs, shouldn't they just buy rather than lease?
snAKes said:SfEvR said:On the buy v lease discussion, most people seem to say you shouldn't buy because the cars will have more range in 3-4 years and your resale will be terrible. But, what if you don't plan on getting a new car in 3 years? What if you've always kept your cars for 10+ years before getting a new one? I've always assumed that leasing would be more expensive if you decide to keep the car at the end of the lease than if you buy the car outright from the beginning. Is that not right? I guess my questions is, if one is a buy-and-hold car buyer and the current e-Golf meets their needs, shouldn't they just buy rather than lease?
I would say not necessarily. I usually negotiate the purchase price first, then during finance negotiation I choose lease vs. buy. Even when I plan to purchase a vehicle I usually end up leasing first because the effective interest rate is usually near 0 (0.4% for my e-Golf). The added benefit is that you have a couple more options at the end of the lease. Of course you can purchase or buy, but often you will have equity in the vehicle, so if you want to turn it in you can get cash back or $ toward another vehicle. You can get a quote from CarMax and compare that to your residual to see if you have equity. I find I have a lot more options when I lease first.
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