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mhathawa

***
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Messages
24
Ok everyone, tell me how badly I did here. This is the least amount of research I've put into an EV lease/purchase, and that's coming from someone that currently leases the Honda Fit EV and had leased a RAV4 EV up until this past June when it was totaled.

In fact, the only real research I did before leasing was reading this forum. On new years eve, I went over to my local dealer at Hilltop VW in Richmond, CA and they had 3 2015 SEL models (2 silvers, 1 white). I ended up leasing the white one. I'd looked at the inventories around the bay area, and knew there weren't many of the 2015 SEL's left on dealer lots. I knew that I wanted leather and the 7.2 kw charger was a must with my commute and workplace charger situation. Would have prefered a 2016 model with the WAY better headunit (mostly for Android Auto), but it will be awhile before incentives are anything close to what I got on the 2015 (i think).

Ok, here's the details of my lease. $0 down (incentives from dealer and VW covered all down payment, fees, tax on cap reduction, etc). Total out of pocket is 35 payments of $238.13+$22.62(tax)= $260.75. I will get the CA state rebate of $2500, so my overall out of pocket will be 35 x $260.75 + -$2,500 rebate = $6,626.25.

My residual is $13,431, and I plan on purchasing at the end of the lease, so I did the 10k miles per year lease. According to my paperwork, the only part I really got screwed on was the lease money factor (which only was shown to me as a "rent charge" at the end when we were doing paperwork). I was really upset they refused to give me a better interest rate/money factor. I have perfect credit, but they said I could only receive the $9,000 incentive OR the low interest, not both. There is so much bullshit going on with the numbers that I feel I probably am getting more screwed than I already know. I went in to sign the paperwork at 6pm on new years eve and had my wife and 8 month old baby with me, so I rushed through the paperwork without really paying much attention. If anyone wants to take the time to look at these details from my lease agreement paperwork and let me know what you think, I'd appreciate it.

MSRP $36,300.00
discount -$8,700.00
acq fee +$625.00
cap cost reduction -$7,629.13
rent charge +$1,408.81
residual -$13,431.00
total base payments $8,572.68

/36 = 238.13 + 22.62 sales tax = $260.75 total payment

They also provided an additional $1,370.87 to cover the first month's payment ($260.75), the registration fees ($260), doc fee ($80), cap reduction tax ($724.77), and all the other misc fees ($45.35). So in summary, I received the $8,700 discount off MSRP plus another $9,000 for (1) cap cost reduction of $7,629.13 which is the pass through of the federal tax credit, and (2) the $1,370.87 to cover all the upfront costs, first month's payment and fees. After all this, I will also get the $2,500 rebate from state CARB rebate.

Like I said, the only thing I think I really got screwed on was the money factor that equated to a $1,408.81 "rent charge". Other than that, I feel pretty good about it, but only because I plan on buying it at the end.

My total out of pocket = (35 x $260.75) - $2,500 rebate + $13,431 residual + sales tax on the residual (I estimate that will be $1,275.95) = grand total of $21,333.20 after all is said and done. Not the best, but certainly not bad when you consider that includes all sales tax, fees, etc.

Anyways, I like the car so far compared to my Fit EV, which was costing me $283/mo after tax. I hate the head unit with a passion already. And my experience with the VW car-net folks has certainly been lackluster so far. I still can't get the app or portal to work, so there's no way of setting up a charge schedule yet. Looking forward to being a part of this cool group here. Thanks to everyone here that contributed their own dealer experience, price and deals, etc.
 
mhathawa said:
Ok everyone, tell me how badly I did here. This is the least amount of research I've put into an EV lease/purchase, and that's coming from someone that currently leases the Honda Fit EV and had leased a RAV4 EV up until this past June when it was totaled.

In fact, the only real research I did before leasing was reading this forum. On new years eve, I went over to my local dealer at Hilltop VW in Richmond, CA and they had 3 2015 SEL models (2 silvers, 1 white). I ended up leasing the white one. I'd looked at the inventories around the bay area, and knew there weren't many of the 2015 SEL's left on dealer lots. I knew that I wanted leather and the 7.2 kw charger was a must with my commute and workplace charger situation. Would have prefered a 2016 model with the WAY better headunit (mostly for Android Auto), but it will be awhile before incentives are anything close to what I got on the 2015 (i think).

Ok, here's the details of my lease. $0 down (incentives from dealer and VW covered all down payment, fees, tax on cap reduction, etc). Total out of pocket is 35 payments of $238.13+$22.62(tax)= $260.75. I will get the CA state rebate of $2500, so my overall out of pocket will be 35 x $260.75 + -$2,500 rebate = $6,626.25.

My residual is $13,431, and I plan on purchasing at the end of the lease, so I did the 10k miles per year lease. According to my paperwork, the only part I really got screwed on was the lease money factor (which only was shown to me as a "rent charge" at the end when we were doing paperwork). I was really upset they refused to give me a better interest rate/money factor. I have perfect credit, but they said I could only receive the $9,000 incentive OR the low interest, not both. There is so much bullshit going on with the numbers that I feel I probably am getting more screwed than I already know. I went in to sign the paperwork at 6pm on new years eve and had my wife and 8 month old baby with me, so I rushed through the paperwork without really paying much attention. If anyone wants to take the time to look at these details from my lease agreement paperwork and let me know what you think, I'd appreciate it.

MSRP $36,300.00
discount -$8,700.00
acq fee +$625.00
cap cost reduction -$7,629.13
rent charge +$1,408.81
residual -$13,431.00
total base payments $8,572.68

/36 = 238.13 + 22.62 sales tax = $260.75 total payment

They also provided an additional $1,370.87 to cover the first month's payment ($260.75), the registration fees ($260), doc fee ($80), cap reduction tax ($724.77), and all the other misc fees ($45.35). So in summary, I received the $8,700 discount off MSRP plus another $9,000 for (1) cap cost reduction of $7,629.13 which is the pass through of the federal tax credit, and (2) the $1,370.87 to cover all the upfront costs, first month's payment and fees. After all this, I will also get the $2,500 rebate from state CARB rebate.

Like I said, the only thing I think I really got screwed on was the money factor that equated to a $1,408.81 "rent charge". Other than that, I feel pretty good about it, but only because I plan on buying it at the end.

My total out of pocket = (35 x $260.75) - $2,500 rebate + $13,431 residual + sales tax on the residual (I estimate that will be $1,275.95) = grand total of $21,333.20 after all is said and done. Not the best, but certainly not bad when you consider that includes all sales tax, fees, etc.

Anyways, I like the car so far compared to my Fit EV, which was costing me $283/mo after tax. I hate the head unit with a passion already. And my experience with the VW car-net folks has certainly been lackluster so far. I still can't get the app or portal to work, so there's no way of setting up a charge schedule yet. Looking forward to being a part of this cool group here. Thanks to everyone here that contributed their own dealer experience, price and deals, etc.
So basically you to a 2015 SEL for $260/month. That isn't bad.
The residual is a bit low, and that's probably where you had to pay.
 
Yep, basically just $260/mo for 35 months. No other costs/fees. And since I plan to buy it at the end of the lease, I was ok with a lower residual. The main thing that bugged me was the high interest/money factor that resulted in a total of $1400 in "rent charges". Everything else seemed on par with what others had reported. Very happy with the e-golf so far. Hoping it will have better range than my Fit EV, which is only giving me about 55 miles of range on a full charge with the cold weather here in the bay area lately (commute from Richmond to Fairfield).
 
Hi newbie here too.
I think you did great.

Just leased 2015 limited edition.
Looked at the SE but wanted the 7.2 charger.

27825 sale price
-1500 - 7500

I put 2500 down.

.00015 MF, 37% residual, 10k miles, 3 yrs

Drive off was 3999

127/month

Wanted a SEL but the other local dealer wanted 32k for a 2015.

Only issue was that dealer said he had it on charger and had full charge w green light but my range said 62 miles and battery gauge was at 3/4. Dealer said that's normal because car hasn't been driven. He said the range will go up once it gets used to my driving style....

Advice?

Thanks
 
Cclcal said:
Only issue was that dealer said he had it on charger and had full charge w green light but my range said 62 miles and battery gauge was at 3/4. Dealer said that's normal because car hasn't been driven. He said the range will go up once it gets used to my driving style....

Advice?

Thanks

Leave it on the charger, it will come up to full. If the green light is on and oscillating in brightness, it's not full, it's still charging. One or two full charges, and driving it nice instead of how people test drive it hard "to see what it'll do" off the line, will drop your range number down. Drive it nicely, and accelerate slowly off of complete stops, and the range mileage will come right back up.

Just pay attention to the needle gauge for your battery charge. Make sure it's pegged on "full" before you drive off the lot.

Two or three full charge cycles, consecutively, between normal drives, will develop full capacity in your traction battery. I don't even like getting into the red "reserve" portion on the gauge either. Any time you are running anything in the "red" zone, you are running it too hard, you need to stop whatever it is you are doing that's putting the needle in the red zone. That's the whole reason the manufacturer made it red, red means "STOP!" like in now, not when you feel like it, and fix the problem immediately.
 
I think the OP did well also. I leased my 2015 SEL in October, and it came out to $9950 for a 3-year lease with 12K miles, or about $7500 after the CA rebate. I actually traded in a Fit EV for the e-Golf. It was a hard decision because I really liked the Fit, but this car is bigger, more stable on the road, and gets much better range in winter. We really needed all three of those things. It was hard to pass up the $199/mo renewal on the Fit EV, but the e-Golf comes out to about the same per month. We bought our 2011 LEAF (should have leased!), and it had already depreciated so much over four years that it made more sense to keep that than to keep the Fit.

My residual is a good bit lower than the OP, probably because I opted for 12K miles/yr. But I'm expecting the world of EVs to have changed so much in 3 years that I'll want to upgrade to something else, and that e-Golfs on the used market will probably be going for less than my residual. Maybe if VW gives me a deal.... Also, I'm a bit concerned about long-term maintenance on a VW. We have an old Audi and it is expensive to keep on the road, although almost all the maintenance and repair issues I've had with the Audi were engine or exhaust-related.
 
Steve, can you give me more of your thoughts on the e-golf vs the Fit EV. I've had the Fit EV for almost 3 years now and the range has just become a pain. At the most, I can get about 70 miles of range, but right now in the bay area with the colder temps, I'm only getting about 50 miles of real highway range. I'm hoping the e-golf range will be an improvement in highway range in weather like this.
 
mhathawa said:
Steve, can you give me more of your thoughts on the e-golf vs the Fit EV. I've had the Fit EV for almost 3 years now and the range has just become a pain. At the most, I can get about 70 miles of range, but right now in the bay area with the colder temps, I'm only getting about 50 miles of real highway range. I'm hoping the e-golf range will be an improvement in highway range in weather like this.

Highway/freeway kills the range on all electrics, even on a Tesla. Speed kills range... if you need more range, drive slower. Laws of physics, can't be changed.
 
JoulesThief said:
Cclcal said:
Only issue was that dealer said he had it on charger and had full charge w green light but my range said 62 miles and battery gauge was at 3/4. Dealer said that's normal because car hasn't been driven. He said the range will go up once it gets used to my driving style....

Advice?

Thanks

Leave it on the charger, it will come up to full. If the green light is on and oscillating in brightness, it's not full, it's still charging. One or two full charges, and driving it nice instead of how people test drive it hard "to see what it'll do" off the line, will drop your range number down. Drive it nicely, and accelerate slowly off of complete stops, and the range mileage will come right back up.

Just pay attention to the needle gauge for your battery charge. Make sure it's pegged on "full" before you drive off the lot.

Two or three full charge cycles, consecutively, between normal drives, will develop full capacity in your traction battery. I don't even like getting into the red "reserve" portion on the gauge either. Any time you are running anything in the "red" zone, you are running it too hard, you need to stop whatever it is you are doing that's putting the needle in the red zone. That's the whole reason the manufacturer made it red, red means "STOP!" like in now, not when you feel like it, and fix the problem immediately.


Thanks!

Will try that and get back.
 
Cclcal said:
JoulesThief said:
Cclcal said:
Only issue was that dealer said he had it on charger and had full charge w green light but my range said 62 miles and battery gauge was at 3/4. Dealer said that's normal because car hasn't been driven. He said the range will go up once it gets used to my driving style....

Advice?

Thanks

Leave it on the charger, it will come up to full. If the green light is on and oscillating in brightness, it's not full, it's still charging. One or two full charges, and driving it nice instead of how people test drive it hard "to see what it'll do" off the line, will drop your range number down. Drive it nicely, and accelerate slowly off of complete stops, and the range mileage will come right back up.

Just pay attention to the needle gauge for your battery charge. Make sure it's pegged on "full" before you drive off the lot.

Two or three full charge cycles, consecutively, between normal drives, will develop full capacity in your traction battery. I don't even like getting into the red "reserve" portion on the gauge either. Any time you are running anything in the "red" zone, you are running it too hard, you need to stop whatever it is you are doing that's putting the needle in the red zone. That's the whole reason the manufacturer made it red, red means "STOP!" like in now, not when you feel like it, and fix the problem immediately.


Thanks!

Will try that and get back.

Take some "Old Man with patience" driving lessons, and the lie-o-meter will come all the way up to 129, 130, 131 miles on a charge, in the lower right portion of the dash screen. Don't ask me how I know.
 
mhathawa said:
My residual is $13,431, and I plan on purchasing at the end of the lease, so I did the 10k miles per year lease. According to my paperwork, the only part I really got screwed on was the lease money factor (which only was shown to me as a "rent charge" at the end when we were doing paperwork). I was really upset they refused to give me a better interest rate/money factor. I have perfect credit, but they said I could only receive the $9,000 incentive OR the low interest, not both. There is so much bullshit going on with the numbers that I feel I probably am getting more screwed than I already know. I went in to sign the paperwork at 6pm on new years eve and had my wife and 8 month old baby with me, so I rushed through the paperwork without really paying much attention. If anyone wants to take the time to look at these details from my lease agreement paperwork and let me know what you think, I'd appreciate it.

MSRP $36,300.00
discount -$8,700.00
acq fee +$625.00
cap cost reduction -$7,629.13
rent charge +$1,408.81
residual -$13,431.00
total base payments $8,572.68

/36 = 238.13 + 22.62 sales tax = $260.75 total payment

They also provided an additional $1,370.87 to cover the first month's payment ($260.75), the registration fees ($260), doc fee ($80), cap reduction tax ($724.77), and all the other misc fees ($45.35). So in summary, I received the $8,700 discount off MSRP plus another $9,000 for (1) cap cost reduction of $7,629.13 which is the pass through of the federal tax credit, and (2) the $1,370.87 to cover all the upfront costs, first month's payment and fees. After all this, I will also get the $2,500 rebate from state CARB rebate.

Like I said, the only thing I think I really got screwed on was the money factor that equated to a $1,408.81 "rent charge". Other than that, I feel pretty good about it, but only because I plan on buying it at the end.

My total out of pocket = (35 x $260.75) - $2,500 rebate + $13,431 residual + sales tax on the residual (I estimate that will be $1,275.95) = grand total of $21,333.20 after all is said and done. Not the best, but certainly not bad when you consider that includes all sales tax, fees, etc.

Anyways, I like the car so far compared to my Fit EV, which was costing me $283/mo after tax. I hate the head unit with a passion already. And my experience with the VW car-net folks has certainly been lackluster so far. I still can't get the app or portal to work, so there's no way of setting up a charge schedule yet. Looking forward to being a part of this cool group here. Thanks to everyone here that contributed their own dealer experience, price and deals, etc.
Since you have a California contract, what is on the line "Rebates and Non-Cash Credits"? My April contract only has the $7,500 Federal Tax Credit pass-through there. That section of the contract includes all the fees on the left and credits on the right side of that section. The totals of charges, including Cap Cost Reduction, Cap Reduction Tax, etc. equal the Credits, Trade-In, and Customer Cash.

My rent charge in April was only $119.37. If you got anything more than the $7,500 in Rebates and Credits, then it may balance out your higher Rent Charge. Maybe just more numbers games...

PS. Sorry to hear about your totaled RAV4 EV.
 
miimura said:
mhathawa said:
My residual is $13,431, and I plan on purchasing at the end of the lease, so I did the 10k miles per year lease. According to my paperwork, the only part I really got screwed on was the lease money factor (which only was shown to me as a "rent charge" at the end when we were doing paperwork). I was really upset they refused to give me a better interest rate/money factor. I have perfect credit, but they said I could only receive the $9,000 incentive OR the low interest, not both. There is so much bullshit going on with the numbers that I feel I probably am getting more screwed than I already know. I went in to sign the paperwork at 6pm on new years eve and had my wife and 8 month old baby with me, so I rushed through the paperwork without really paying much attention. If anyone wants to take the time to look at these details from my lease agreement paperwork and let me know what you think, I'd appreciate it.

MSRP $36,300.00
discount -$8,700.00
acq fee +$625.00
cap cost reduction -$7,629.13
rent charge +$1,408.81
residual -$13,431.00
total base payments $8,572.68

/36 = 238.13 + 22.62 sales tax = $260.75 total payment

They also provided an additional $1,370.87 to cover the first month's payment ($260.75), the registration fees ($260), doc fee ($80), cap reduction tax ($724.77), and all the other misc fees ($45.35). So in summary, I received the $8,700 discount off MSRP plus another $9,000 for (1) cap cost reduction of $7,629.13 which is the pass through of the federal tax credit, and (2) the $1,370.87 to cover all the upfront costs, first month's payment and fees. After all this, I will also get the $2,500 rebate from state CARB rebate.

Like I said, the only thing I think I really got screwed on was the money factor that equated to a $1,408.81 "rent charge". Other than that, I feel pretty good about it, but only because I plan on buying it at the end.

My total out of pocket = (35 x $260.75) - $2,500 rebate + $13,431 residual + sales tax on the residual (I estimate that will be $1,275.95) = grand total of $21,333.20 after all is said and done. Not the best, but certainly not bad when you consider that includes all sales tax, fees, etc.

Anyways, I like the car so far compared to my Fit EV, which was costing me $283/mo after tax. I hate the head unit with a passion already. And my experience with the VW car-net folks has certainly been lackluster so far. I still can't get the app or portal to work, so there's no way of setting up a charge schedule yet. Looking forward to being a part of this cool group here. Thanks to everyone here that contributed their own dealer experience, price and deals, etc.
Since you have a California contract, what is on the line "Rebates and Non-Cash Credits"? My April contract only has the $7,500 Federal Tax Credit pass-through there. That section of the contract includes all the fees on the left and credits on the right side of that section. The totals of charges, including Cap Cost Reduction, Cap Reduction Tax, etc. equal the Credits, Trade-In, and Customer Cash.

My rent charge in April was only $119.37. If you got anything more than the $7,500 in Rebates and Credits, then it may balance out your higher Rent Charge. Maybe just more numbers games...

PS. Sorry to hear about your totaled RAV4 EV.

Miimura, nice to see you on here, I remember you from the myrav4ev forum. You're the guy that built the solar spreadsheet, right? I used it to come up with an annual NEM calculator based on my historical usage and estimated future usage, and incorporated PVWatts data to determine how big a PV system I needed. I helped at least 10 other people determine their solar needs based off that thing. Never did thank you for all your help.

How do you like your E-golf compared to your RAV4 EV? I went from having the Fit EV to the RAV4, and I loved that it realistically gave me almost twice the range of the Fit EV. I obviously don't have those kind of expectations from the E-golf, I just liked the way the E-golf drove and how great the interior was compared to all other EV's.

As for your question, my "Rebates and non-cash" credits line in my contract shows $9000, so yeah, that is $1500 more than the federal tax credit passthrough, and just offsets my $1408 "rent charge". So the $9000 stacked with the $8700 discount on the purchase price, but is offset by the $1408 'rent charge', so you're right, they just played numbers game, but that damn rent charge is almost equivalent to a 16% interest rate.
 
mhathawa said:
Steve, can you give me more of your thoughts on the e-golf vs the Fit EV. I've had the Fit EV for almost 3 years now and the range has just become a pain. At the most, I can get about 70 miles of range, but right now in the bay area with the colder temps, I'm only getting about 50 miles of real highway range. I'm hoping the e-golf range will be an improvement in highway range in weather like this.

I'm in the SF Bay also. I am reliably getting well over 70 miles range with the e-Golf, traveling at highway speeds (70mph), with the heat at 72F, even in these recent chilly days. The heat pump in the e-Golf is much more efficient than the resistance heater in the Fit. Also, it seems to lose less range with higher speeds than the Fit did. The Fit was amazingly efficient at slower speeds in warm weather, but for all other conditions, I find the e-Golf significantly superior on range.
 
stevestrange said:
mhathawa said:
Steve, can you give me more of your thoughts on the e-golf vs the Fit EV. I've had the Fit EV for almost 3 years now and the range has just become a pain. At the most, I can get about 70 miles of range, but right now in the bay area with the colder temps, I'm only getting about 50 miles of real highway range. I'm hoping the e-golf range will be an improvement in highway range in weather like this.

I'm in the SF Bay also. I am reliably getting well over 70 miles range with the e-Golf, traveling at highway speeds (70mph), with the heat at 72F, even in these recent chilly days. The heat pump in the e-Golf is much more efficient than the resistance heater in the Fit. Also, it seems to lose less range with higher speeds than the Fit did. The Fit was amazingly efficient at slower speeds in warm weather, but for all other conditions, I find the e-Golf significantly superior on range.

I should add that the SE does not have the heat pump -- so for the higher efficiency in cold weather (if you want heat!), you need to get the SEL.
 
Leave it on the charger, it will come up to full. If the green light is on and oscillating in brightness, it's not full, it's still charging. One or two full charges, and driving it nice instead of how people test drive it hard "to see what it'll do" off the line, will drop your range number down. Drive it nicely, and accelerate slowly off of complete stops, and the range mileage will come right back up.

Just pay attention to the needle gauge for your battery charge. Make sure it's pegged on "full" before you drive off the lot.

Two or three full charge cycles, consecutively, between normal drives, will develop full capacity in your traction battery. I don't even like getting into the red "reserve" portion on the gauge either. Any time you are running anything in the "red" zone, you are running it too hard, you need to stop whatever it is you are doing that's putting the needle in the red zone. That's the whole reason the manufacturer made it red, red means "STOP!" like in now, not when you feel like it, and fix the problem immediately.[/quote]


Thanks!

Will try that and get back.[/quote]

Take some "Old Man with patience" driving lessons, and the lie-o-meter will come all the way up to 129, 130, 131 miles on a charge, in the lower right portion of the dash screen. Don't ask me how I know.[/quote]


Let car charge at local L2 charger for 3 hours. Full charge, States 83 miles.
Will see what happens.
I guess the dealer misspoke when he said he had it connected to charger all afternoon and 62 miles was full charge?

im going to enjoy this car
 
Cclcal said:
Leave it on the charger, it will come up to full. If the green light is on and oscillating in brightness, it's not full, it's still charging. One or two full charges, and driving it nice instead of how people test drive it hard "to see what it'll do" off the line, will drop your range number down. Drive it nicely, and accelerate slowly off of complete stops, and the range mileage will come right back up.

Just pay attention to the needle gauge for your battery charge. Make sure it's pegged on "full" before you drive off the lot.

Two or three full charge cycles, consecutively, between normal drives, will develop full capacity in your traction battery. I don't even like getting into the red "reserve" portion on the gauge either. Any time you are running anything in the "red" zone, you are running it too hard, you need to stop whatever it is you are doing that's putting the needle in the red zone. That's the whole reason the manufacturer made it red, red means "STOP!" like in now, not when you feel like it, and fix the problem immediately.


Thanks!

Will try that and get back.[/quote]

Take some "Old Man with patience" driving lessons, and the lie-o-meter will come all the way up to 129, 130, 131 miles on a charge, in the lower right portion of the dash screen. Don't ask me how I know.[/quote]


Let car charge at local L2 charger for 3 hours. Full charge, States 83 miles.
Will see what happens.
I guess the dealer misspoke when he said he had it connected to charger all afternoon and 62 miles was full charge?

im going to enjoy this car[/quote]

Try driving 40 to 60 mph for a whole charge cycle, then recharge, and see if your lie-o-meter doesn't come up over 100 miles for range. I have seen as high as 131 miles showing on mine after a recharge where most of the driving was at 45- 55 mph, nothing over 60 except to get into correct lanes for freeway interchanges. I've also gone 114 miles on a charge with 11 miles remaining on the battery. A lot is possible, if you have the will power to practice patience and refrain from the herd mentality on freeways.
 
mhathawa said:
Miimura, nice to see you on here, I remember you from the myrav4ev forum. You're the guy that built the solar spreadsheet, right?
Yep. That's me.

mhathawa said:
I used it to come up with an annual NEM calculator based on my historical usage and estimated future usage, and incorporated PVWatts data to determine how big a PV system I needed. I helped at least 10 other people determine their solar needs based off that thing. Never did thank you for all your help.

How do you like your E-golf compared to your RAV4 EV? I went from having the Fit EV to the RAV4, and I loved that it realistically gave me almost twice the range of the Fit EV. I obviously don't have those kind of expectations from the E-golf, I just liked the way the E-golf drove and how great the interior was compared to all other EV's.
I like the e-Golf as a complement to the RAV4. Our old ICE car, a 2001 Passat GLX Wagon was getting very expensive to maintain and we almost never drove it since we only took it out when we needed two cars at the same time. So, we traded it in for the e-Golf. Also, I just got the JdeMO installed on the RAV, so it's becoming a viable in-state vacation car. A few more CHAdeMO chargers on 101, I-5 and I-80 and we'll be all set.

mhathawa said:
As for your question, my "Rebates and non-cash" credits line in my contract shows $9000, so yeah, that is $1500 more than the federal tax credit passthrough, and just offsets my $1408 "rent charge". So the $9000 stacked with the $8700 discount on the purchase price, but is offset by the $1408 'rent charge', so you're right, they just played numbers game, but that damn rent charge is almost equivalent to a 16% interest rate.
Sounds like a straight up numbers game. Although I have to wonder whose pocket each of those numbers go into. Seems like the rent charge should be going to VW credit, which doesn't really seem fair given how they seem to have pushed the numbers around.
 
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