New to me 2019 E-Golf 34k Miles

[burnham2k19egolf]

Hi. So I have had now a 2019 E-Golf with 34k miles on it. First almost 2 weeks everything was perfect. I will say I drive this car a lot doing deliveries and such. Maybe 100 miles a day. Right now I can only charge at home on 110 so of course is very slow. Many times I have to DC fast charge at EA usually once a day. Usually going from like 40% to 80%. There was no issues except 2 days ago. I fast charged at EA and about 15 minutes later I get the dreaded "Electrical System: STOP Error". Beeps at me and scares the crap at me. I am like oh great what is this. Again this was about 15 minutes after fast charging to about 80%. Now keep in mind it has been hot here in the 90's the last few days. So something to keep in mind. Anyway about 7-8 minutes pass and still error message anytime I try to start. So 10 minutes go by and just as I am about to call for a tow it starts. No error message and shows none under the car status. I drive for another 30 or so miles and go home. I charge at night like I do to 80% and drive it the next day. No issues at all and all is good but then have to fast charge again. So once again I fast charge going from like 40% to 80%. I wanted to see if the issue would happen again. So all was good for about 45 minutes then could not start again. Same error message. Now keep in mind it did not do this while driving just when trying to start after was turned off. And same thing I left it off for about 10 minutes then error went away and started no issue was able to start again.

This was the last 2 days. Today only have done the slow trickle charge and no issues. So from my observations this only seems to happen sometime after fast charging. Trickle 110v charging does not do this. Also seems to happen when really hot. Both times it has been 90f+. My thoughts is something is getting hot between driving it a lot and fast charging the combo causes it to be too hot and after about 10 minutes is cooled down enough to clear. Or is it the AC to DC component that is going bad or is bad? Just weird how it clears up after 10 minutes. Or could it be a bad 12v battery? I will be going to get that tested soon and possibly just replacing it. Thoughts??

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

Wanted to add I will be adding a 220v circuit this Thursday at my house so the majority of my charging will be at home since will be much faster now. So will not need the DC fast charging near as much in near future.

 

[f1geek]

I DCFC car in hot climates (on annual road trip) and never saw an error. Have done this for 6 years. I DCFC about once a month in moderate climate, otherwise and no error messages.

Your 2019 should still have warranty coverage. You should get it checked out.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

Ok so today it actually threw the error with absolutely no DC fast charge. I went in store while wife and kids remained in car. after 5 mins she said it turned off and threw the error again. So thinking back everytime I would fast charge I would remain in car with music and ac running. Seems to me is the main 12v battery. The indicator circle on battery shows almost full yellow I think this means nearly bad battery? is mainly yellow with about the size of small marker in center clear. All new to me. Next move going to replace the 12v battery.

 

[EasyValue]

Note: Powertrain warranty is 5 years (battery is 8). You may want to take it in, maybe it hasn’t expired yet.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

Powertrain is expired. However I feel like an idiot but am relieved at the same time. It is no doubt the battery but tested good took it to autozone to have them test. But showed only at 74% charge. It is 100% user error. When sitting waiting for it to charge sometimes 45 minutes with it in the off position I have been running the ac and music. Thinking it was running off of the powertrain car battery not the accessory battery. Guess I just assumed. Slowly doing this I have been draining the battery. Kept the ac low and music volume low tonight I had no issue. in the E-Manager car options I figured the check box on option "Climate control using battery power" meant not using the accessory battery. Again am noobie when it comes to all ev.

So with that all said what charges the accessory battery? Like how in an ICE vehicle the alternator charges how does it get charged in an EV??

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

So far so good today. Followed protocol of not running accessories while charging and all has been good. Will continue to the course and go from there. I did call the dealership so get the cost of replacing the battery and they said $450. As they have to not just replace battery but reset codes, etc. Too bad that the original battery has just 3 year manufacturer warranty.

 

[f1geek]

Powertrain is expired. However I feel like an idiot but am relieved at the same time. It is no doubt the battery but tested good took it to autozone to have them test. But showed only at 74% charge. It is 100% user error. When sitting waiting for it to charge sometimes 45 minutes with it in the off position I have been running the ac and music. Thinking it was running off of the powertrain car battery not the accessory battery. Guess I just assumed. Slowly doing this I have been draining the battery. Kept the ac low and music volume low tonight I had no issue. in the E-Manager car options I figured the check box on option "Climate control using battery power" meant not using the accessory battery. Again am noobie when it comes to all ev.

So with that all said what charges the accessory battery? Like how in an ICE vehicle the alternator charges how does it get charged in an EV??

AC only runs off HV battery. Accessories run off 12 V. I regularly run AC while DCFC and had no issues. I hope replacing 12 V battery fixes issues.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

AC only runs off HV battery. Accessories run off 12 V. I regularly run AC while DCFC and had no issues. I hope replacing 12 V battery fixes issues.

Thats good to know. Could not really find a clear answer. Yesterday was all good didn't run accessories while charging and had no issue. So must be battery. Most likely is the stock battery so seems it is that time. Sucks is something I cannot do as has to be programmed at dealership.

 

[f1geek]

Thats good to know. Could not really find a clear answer. Yesterday was all good didn't run accessories while charging and had no issue. So must be battery. Most likely is the stock battery so seems it is that time. Sucks is something I cannot do as has to be programmed at dealership.

I have read various opinions about replacing 12 V battery without programming. The key benefit of programming is telling the main computer that you replaced the battery, though I suspect the car will also learn over time that you replaced the battery. It is also possible to use OBDEleven (maybe other OBD software, too) to code the battery so the car knows you changed it.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

I have read various opinions about replacing 12 V battery without programming. The key benefit of programming is telling the main computer that you replaced the battery, though I suspect the car will also learn over time that you replaced the battery. It is also possible to use OBDEleven (maybe other OBD software, too) to code the battery so the car knows you changed it.

Yeah they quoted me 350 for the battery and 100 for the programming. I guess it could be worse though so really not too bad considering how much just the 12v batteries are now days.

Another question that option in the e-manager settings. The check box is checked for the "Climate control using battery power" So is that stating to use HV power for AC??

 

[f1geek]

Yeah they quoted me 350 for the battery and 100 for the programming. I guess it could be worse though so really not too bad considering how much just the 12v batteries are now days.

Another question that option in the e-manager settings. The check box is checked for the "Climate control using battery power" So is that stating to use HV power for AC??

This setting is related to warming or cooling the car on a schedule so it is at your desired temperature when you are ready to drive - preconditioning the cabin, in other words.

Preconditioning uses energy and you are given the option to precondition the cabin using HV battery power, knowing you will lose range. Optimally, you keep the car plugged into an AC charging station prior to the departure time so the mains AC is used to warm or cool the cabin, thus not eating into driving range.

Like I said before, heating or AC runs off the HV battery, not the 12 V battery. The heater alone can pull about 5 kW, well above the power output of the puny 12 V battery.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

This setting is related to warming or cooling the car on a schedule so it is at your desired temperature when you are ready to drive - preconditioning the cabin, in other words.

Preconditioning uses energy and you are given the option to precondition the cabin using HV battery power, knowing you will lose range. Optimally, you keep the car plugged into an AC charging station prior to the departure time so the mains AC is used to warm or cool the cabin, thus not eating into driving range.

Like I said before, heating or AC runs off the HV battery, not the 12 V battery. The heater alone can pull about 5 kW, well above the power output of the puny 12 V battery.

Very good information. Thank you

 

[miamor]

Yeah they quoted me 350 for the battery and 100 for the programming...

I replaced my battery ($250), with the specified AGM non spillable type. But I cannot locate a dealer around Phx AZ who knows how to reprogram car. They say it's not possible.
Did you make sure they really did?
I lam asking because I get annoying messages from time to time about 12V bat low, charge while driving. Which is how it does get charged from the HV battery. I saw you were asking about that.
I'd pay to get the car reprogrammed if it would eliminate the occasional scary warnings. It's got 12.7V when I have the warning, that means it's not true.

 

[f1geek]

I replaced my battery ($250), with the specified AGM non spillable type. But I cannot locate a dealer around Phx AZ who knows how to reprogram car. They say it's not possible.
Did you make sure they really did?
I lam asking because I get annoying messages from time to time about 12V bat low, charge while driving. Which is how it does get charged from the HV battery. I saw you were asking about that.
I'd pay to get the car reprogrammed if it would eliminate the occasional scary warnings. It's got 12.7V when I have the warning, that means it's not true.

Thanks! What voltage triggers the warning? I was under the impression that the computer learns over time the true state of health of the 12 V battery (essentially updating the calibration over time as opposed to all one once when the battery is coded).

 

[UranoMausBosch]

VW specific software like OBD11 or VCDS or dealer will match the size and type of battery as well as clear any error codes.
There are options for regular wet-cell, AGM, Gel-Cell, LiFe (lithium) and different sizes of factory recommended Varta EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) - designed for longer cycle-life with more charge/discharge than typical "starter batteries".
I'm still on my 2019 OE battery but check the small round "health window" on the top periodically to keep tabs.

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

Ok sorry I have not responded for a while I had no update until now. So I had an appointment with Audi 2 days ago to get the battery replaced and programmed. Due to all of the dealerships systems being offline due to the hack they were not able to do anything until then anyway. So I show up at 8:30am appointment time and I was told they would need my car there at least a day or 2. This is due to going through third party warranty(SilverRock) they said they are slow to pay and sometimes take a day or 2 to make payment. I said no thanks just sell me a battery I will install myself and chance as far as the error codes go. Paid $350 for a brand new battery that I installed myself. Initially it threw 5 different codes however the car did start. At this point I figured I would drive to VW dealership and pay the $100 to have them clear the codes. However after driving not even 2 miles down the road one by one they cleared until they were all gone and absolutely no messages or codes. All cleared and has been perfect since. I no longer from time to time get the dreaded "electrical system stop" error which is a great relief. So I am one of the cases that no programming was needed it learned and cleared on it's own. Thanks everyone for your recommendations and responses.

 

[gitnewb]

So I am one of the cases that no programming was needed it learned and cleared on it's own.

If your negative battery terminal has this connector on it, then you need to still have your battery programmed in the gateway module:



Sure you might not have any error messages on the dash, but if the car's computer doesn't know you installed a new battery then it won't be charging it properly. You could possibly be reducing significantly the life of the new battery for no reason.

If you need more evidence of this: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10185168-0001.pdf

 

[burnham2k19egolf]

If your negative battery terminal has this connector on it, then you need to still have your battery programmed in the gateway module:

View attachment 243

Sure you might not have any error messages on the dash, but if the car's computer doesn't know you installed a new battery then it won't be charging it properly. You could possibly be reducing significantly the life of the new battery for no reason.

If you need more evidence of this: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10185168-0001.pdf

Ok thanks for the heads up money has been tight was barely able to buy the battery but will take in and get it programmed.

Just curious though it does say that if it was not adapted properly the stop/start will not work and multiple DTC's can result. Again in my case there were errors but they cleared and was able to start/stop right off the bat.

 

[gitnewb]

Firstly, when you replaced the battery did you replace it with an exact match? (AGM to AGM and XX Ah to XX Ah) If no, then this would cause an issue with the charging logic over time.

Secondly, if the car doesn't know a new battery is installed, the battery charging logic will be altered and believe it's still charging a new battery. Over time this will degrade the battery faster. Will it work for now? Yes sure. Will you get the most out of your brand new expensive purchase, probably not. You'll just end up buying a new battery sooner again. If money is tight I get it. It might be cheaper to just go and buy OBDeleven depending on how much the dealer charges.

More information: https://www.midtronics.com/blog/bat...o-it/#h-why-battery-registration-is-necessary

From a VW mater tech: