Maintenance

[Jimbo435]

Got an email from the dealer for my 2015. "Time for your 10K mile maintenance!" This was after only 6 months.
After the third one, I kindly replied that on a 10K mile/year lease, I am only at 5K miles.
A week later I get a "Time for your 5K mile maintenance!" email.
So I pulled out my manual, to see what the actual maintenance schedule is.
Funny thing... My manual says nothing about maintenance.
No separate schedule either. Just the main manual, and the Infotainment manual.

So is there a schedule? And if so, what is it?

Found post from last year that says there is none.
Just wanted to confirm.

 

[forbin404]

Got an email from the dealer for my 2015. "Time for your 10K mile maintenance!" This was after only 6 months.
After the third one, I kindly replied that on a 10K mile/year lease, I am only at 5K miles.
A week later I get a "Time for your 5K mile maintenance!" email.
So I pulled out my manual, to see what the actual maintenance schedule is.
Funny thing... My manual says nothing about maintenance.
No separate schedule either. Just the main manual, and the Infotainment manual.

So is there a schedule? And if so, what is it?

Found post from last year that says there is none.
Just wanted to confirm.

20k / 30k go to your carnet app and it tells you when.

BTW there IS a 10k service (Optional on 2016 but dunno about 2015) , but there is no such thing as a 5k service. You are getting scammed.

 

[Sptgolf]

I have the same question. 3 year 30k lease. What are require services under my lease? Carnet says next service at 20k and I only have 300 miles on the odometer.

 

[GadgetGav]

I'm on a 3 year lease from December 2014 and got the first 10k miles / 12 month service included.
Pretty sure that in my manuals folder there was a separate book for maintenance schedule and it was every 10,000 miles or 12 months. What needed doing at each service was very minimal so the pre-paid service package doesn't seem like good value for the e-Golf.

There's a way to look it up online in the service section of a VW dealership page I think.

 

[RonDawg]

The first thing the OP needs to do is blacklist that dealer's email address.

 

[JoulesThief]

The first thing the OP needs to do is blacklist that dealer's email address.

X2. That's unethical as all get up. If they do this on routine service, imagine what they'll do when warranty is up, create a big fat bill for things that don't even need to be fixed, or done, like oil changes or transmission service fluids. Walk away, now, forever.

 

[Sptgolf]

So I emailed my salesperson at the dealer and here is what he said for maintenance on the 2016 SE. I thought I would share it. 3 year 30k lease.


"...So I spoke with my Service Advisors about the maintenance on the E-Golf. He recommends to bring it in every 5k miles for a tire rotation, which is free for that car while under warranty! At 20 and 30k is where the bigger checkups are, but other than those the vehicle is basically maintenance free."

 

[JoulesThief]

So I emailed my salesperson at the dealer and here is what he said for maintenance on the 2016 SE. I thought I would share it. 3 year 30k lease.


"...So I spoke with my Service Advisors about the maintenance on the E-Golf. He recommends to bring it in every 5k miles for a tire rotation, which is free for that car while under warranty! At 20 and 30k is where the bigger checkups are, but other than those the vehicle is basically maintenance free."

If you drive like a moron, accelerate hard and brake hard, and don't check your tire pressure in your tires, rotate every 5000 miles. If you drive civilized, rotate your tires once, at 25 to 30k miles, and be done with it. I never peg the green gauge when applying the brakes, 2 is usually max for me. I anticipate getting 50 to 60k miles out of the set of tires on my 2015 SEL. I run 45 psi all the time. Around town, I get 5.5 to 6.5 miles per kw, all the time, on flat ground.

PS, I should add I am past the age that driving is fun, or driving competitively on public streets is my idea of a good time. YMMV, it's an appliance to me, to get me from Point A to Point B reliably, for a long, long time. i drive to make things last, not wear them out. Drive how you like, but if you are going to play, you're gonna pay.

 

[RonDawg]

IMHO 25k is way too long to postpone a tire rotation. I don't know about for the eGolf since I have less than 4k on my car, but the Bridgestone Ecopias that were supplied with the Nissan Leaf were usually worn out by 25k miles WITH a 5k rotation schedule. The fronts would be bald well before then if you didn't rotate.

Front wheel drive cars are hard on tires even if you drive them gently, since one pair of wheels is doing acceleration duties as well as the majority of the braking. Some folks prefer to not rotate tires until the fronts are bald, in which the rears are swapped to the front and new tires put on the rear (for liability reasons, tire shops will always put new tires on the rear axle); however, having less tread up front means the car is more likely to "plow" (understeer) than usual, and FWD cars are already notorious for this trait due to them being heavily weight biased towards the front. This would be especially noticeable in the rain since the fronts will have less tread with which to channel away the water.

Cars.com recommends at least once a year, preferably every six months: https://www.cars.com/articles/2013/05/how-often-should-you-rotate-your-tires/

Cooper Tires recommends every 5k-8k: http://us.coopertire.com/Tire-Safety/Tire-Maintenance/Tire-Rotation.aspx Same with Michelin: http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/safe-driving/tire-safety/tire-rotation.html

Goodyear recommends every 3k-6k: https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/services/tire-rotation

 

[JoulesThief]

IMHO 25k is way too long to postpone a tire rotation. I don't know about for the eGolf since I have less than 4k on my car, but the Bridgestone Ecopias that were supplied with the Nissan Leaf were usually worn out by 25k miles WITH a 5k rotation schedule. The fronts would be bald well before then if you didn't rotate.

Front wheel drive cars are hard on tires even if you drive them gently, since one pair of wheels is doing acceleration duties as well as the majority of the braking. Some folks prefer to not rotate tires until the fronts are bald, in which the rears are swapped to the front and new tires put on the rear (for liability reasons, tire shops will always put new tires on the rear axle); however, having less tread up front means the car is more likely to "plow" (understeer) than usual, and FWD cars are already notorious for this trait due to them being heavily weight biased towards the front. This would be especially noticeable in the rain since the fronts will have less tread with which to channel away the water.

Cars.com recommends at least once a year, preferably every six months: https://www.cars.com/articles/2013/05/how-often-should-you-rotate-your-tires/

Cooper Tires recommends every 5k-8k: http://us.coopertire.com/Tire-Safety/Tire-Maintenance/Tire-Rotation.aspx Same with Michelin: http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/safe-driving/tire-safety/tire-rotation.html

Goodyear recommends every 3k-6k: https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/services/tire-rotation

I have a 3400 pound Passat TDI with 240 ft lbs of torque, with 25k miles on it. Tires never rotated. Maybe at the 30k mile service, as the RF rim has been barely curbed by the GF. Tread depth sits at 7/32, front and rear. I never rotate the tires on the two Touareg TDI's either. But of course, those are AWD.

If you drive hard, or enthusiastically, you will eat tires. If you just drive from point A to point B in a conservative manner, tire rotation is a 1x thing in the life of the tire, you rotate as close to half life as possible.
Your Nissan came with Ecopia's, the e-Golf comes with Ecopia Plus tires... they are different... one has a 400 tread wear rating, the other a 500 tread wear rating.

 

[bizzle]

My experience is that tire shops install the best tires on the front tires.

 

[Verkehr]

My experience is that tire shops install the best tires on the front tires.

I kindly suggest you avoid those tire shops :shock:

Not necessarily a big deal, practically speaking, but that is the wrong practice.

 

[RonDawg]

By installing new tires on the front axle only and leaving the old tires on the rear, that will make the rear end break loose a lot easier due to reduced traction as compared to the front. Most drivers can handle it if the fronts break loose prematurely, as scrubbing off speed (such as by applying the brakes as often happens when a driver panics) corrects the problem. But if the rears break loose, hitting the brakes, or even just merely lifting off the throttle, will make the problem even worse as any early Porsche 911 driver will tell you.

Per Tire Rack http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=52 :

If the front tires have significantly less tread depth than the rear tires, the front tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the rear tires. While this will cause the vehicle to understeer (the vehicle wants to continue driving straight ahead), understeer is relatively easy to control because releasing the gas pedal will slow the vehicle and help the driver maintain control.

However, if the front tires have significantly more tread depth than the rear tires, the rear tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the fronts. This will cause the vehicle to oversteer (the vehicle will want to spin). Oversteer is far more difficult to control and in addition to the initial distress felt when the rear of the car starts sliding, quickly releasing the gas pedal in an attempt to slow down may actually make it more difficult for the driver to regain control, possibly causing a complete spinout.

Discount Tire has a video demonstrating the above: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTiresRear.do

The US being as litigious as it is, and driving itself being hazardous even with the best equipment, any tire shop that goes against current tire industry recommendations and installs new tires on the front axle only (at least on a car that uses 4 identically-sized tires) better make its customers sign waivers.

 

[RonDawg]

IMHO 25k is way too long to postpone a tire rotation.

I have a 3400 pound Passat TDI with 240 ft lbs of torque, with 25k miles on it. Tires never rotated. Maybe at the 30k mile service, as the RF rim has been barely curbed by the GF. Tread depth sits at 7/32, front and rear. I never rotate the tires on the two Touareg TDI's either. But of course, those are AWD.

As someone who is constantly preaching "RTFM" in this forum, you may want to know that the eGolf's "USA Warranty and Maintenance" supplemental booklet specifically recommends a tire rotation every 10k miles.

 

[miimura]

In addition, frequent tire rotations on a front wheel drive car will keep the tread depths more equal over time. In this situation, the front tires are doing all the work, so they always wear faster than the rears. I always prefer to have the tread depth as equal as possible.

 

[Sptgolf]

As someone who is constantly preaching "RTFM" in this forum, you may want to know that the eGolf's "USA Warranty and Maintenance" supplemental booklet specifically recommends a tire rotation every 10k miles.

Haha.

 

[bizzle]

My experience is that tire shops install the best tires on the front tires.

I kindly suggest you avoid those tire shops :shock:

Not necessarily a big deal, practically speaking, but that is the wrong practice.

So you go to shops to rotate your tires and they refuse to rotate them because the more worn tires are already up front?

 

[forbin404]

My experience is that tire shops install the best tires on the front tires.

I kindly suggest you avoid those tire shops :shock:

Not necessarily a big deal, practically speaking, but that is the wrong practice.

So you go to shops to rotate your tires and they refuse to rotate them because the more worn tires are already up front?

Depends on the wear, if you rotate properly then the diff is small and they will rotate them.

If you go in with 3mm (I'm making that up) or more diff, they will RECOMMEND you to keep the thicker ones in the back.

ANY GOOD tire shop will tell you that, though you can insist on thick fronts.

 

[bizzle]

If you go in with 3mm (I'm making that up)

You don't have to make any number up. The same links that people use to justify their position on this subject already determined the difference to be 2/32", which is .6mm, or roughly half of what you wrote.

 

[RonDawg]

So you go to shops to rotate your tires and they refuse to rotate them because the more worn tires are already up front?

This poster said Discount Tires refused to do just that: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2936212

Someone posted on MyNissanLeaf of a similar experience with Discount Tire: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=7531

This one had a similar experience with Pep Boys: https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=1561503