EVO Charger

[2EgolfFC]

Hi. We have 2 eGolfs in Los Angeles both FC .
I bought a brand new EVO charger off ebay because I thought the product looked good and serious and the company based in LA.
The EVO arrived brand new in the box with all original packaging.
I tried to plug it on a 30 Amp line 10/3 line to test it.
It starts charging then tripps off after 1 or 2 minutes.If I open the door of the car ,the charger starts again,same if I touch the button next to the plug on the car. then will trigger off again 2 minutes later.
My calculation was that the car is 7.2 KWh and 240x30 = 7200 so it could only pull 30 Amps at the most and I thought the 30 Amp line was good to try before pulling a 40 Amp line from the back of the house.
EVO does not want to even support the charger because I did not buy it from them .They don't even want to test or tell me after insisting a lot ( really nasty people ) that their manufacturing facility is in an other state ( Oklahoma ? ) and they just have an office in LA.
Not nice people at all.

Has anybody experience with this charger ? Do you think it is because of the line ? If it is the line I see that the car has 4 options Max-13 Amp-10 Amp and 5 Amp. i plan to try with a lower power to see if it does the same.
Thank you if you can help.

 

[forbin404]

Did you make sure to push the 'charge now' button before?
If not then it will turn off after 2 minutes.

 

[BarryMW]

You can only pull 80% of the rating through a circuit (breaker)
So your 30A circuit is only good for 24A.

You could turn down the current required by the car using the phone app or website.

BTW the car will draw about 32A @ 240V

Barry

 

[2EgolfFC]

You can only pull 80% of the rating through a circuit (breaker)
So your 30A circuit is only good for 24A.

You could turn down the current required by the car using the phone app or website.

BTW the car will draw about 32A @ 240V

Barry

What do you men by "your 30 A circuit is only good for 24 A " ?

and the car will draw 32 A ???

Can you explain ?

eGolf has a 7.2 KWh and 240 x 30 = 7200

 

[2EgolfFC]

Did you make sure to push the 'charge now' button before?
If not then it will turn off after 2 minutes.

I saw that in the dash settings but it was not an available option .it would not click.

How do you do that ?

 

[forbin404]

It in the plug at the back of your car,
Is there no button back there?

 

[miimura]

You can only pull 80% of the rating through a circuit (breaker)
So your 30A circuit is only good for 24A.

You could turn down the current required by the car using the phone app or website.

BTW the car will draw about 32A @ 240V

Barry

What do you men by "your 30 A circuit is only good for 24 A " ?

and the car will draw 32 A ???

Can you explain ?

eGolf has a 7.2 KWh and 240 x 30 = 7200

According to US National Electric Code, a circuit used for EV charging (or any other continuous draw) must be rated at 125% of the continuous draw of the EV charging current.
24 amps x 125% = 30 amps
32 amps x 125% = 40 amps
40 amps x 125% = 50 amps

That is why an EVSE plugged into a 30 amp socket is only allowed to pull 24 amps. Also, a 30 or 32 amp EVSE needs the wire to be sized for 40 amps and the breaker must be 40 amps.

Also, while the current can be changed in the e-Manager (either on the infotainment screen on a 2016 or CarNet on a 2015), I feel that is not reliable and the EVSE must be properly configured for the circuit being used. Most EVSE are not adjustable, but there are some that are. I don't know of one that is UL Listed and adjustable.

 

[2EgolfFC]

You can only pull 80% of the rating through a circuit (breaker)
So your 30A circuit is only good for 24A.

You could turn down the current required by the car using the phone app or website.

BTW the car will draw about 32A @ 240V

Barry

What do you men by "your 30 A circuit is only good for 24 A " ?

and the car will draw 32 A ???

Can you explain ?

eGolf has a 7.2 KWh and 240 x 30 = 7200

According to US National Electric Code, a circuit used for EV charging (or any other continuous draw) must be rated at 125% of the continuous draw of the EV charging current.
24 amps x 125% = 30 amps
32 amps x 125% = 40 amps
40 amps x 125% = 50 amps

That is why an EVSE plugged into a 30 amp socket is only allowed to pull 24 amps. Also, a 30 or 32 amp EVSE needs the wire to be sized for 40 amps and the breaker must be 40 amps.

Also, while the current can be changed in the e-Manager (either on the infotainment screen on a 2016 or CarNet on a 2015), I feel that is not reliable and the EVSE must be properly configured for the circuit being used. Most EVSE are not adjustable, but there are some that are. I don't know of one that is UL Listed and adjustable.

 

[GlennD]

I do not know about 32A. My eGolf is metered and it draws 30A from a 40A EVSE. 32A is the maximum for a 40A circuit (32A is 80% of 40A) but at least my car charges at 30A. My B charged at 40A but only Tesla and Tesla based cars charge at higher currents.

The NEC defines car chargers as continuous loads so the circuit has to be derated. Practically a 30A EVSE on a 30A circuit would likely complete in less than 3 hours but the NEC makes the rules.

One of my pet peeves is buying a higher power EVSE thinking the car will charge faster. If adaquate current is available then the car charger sets the current and more is ignored. My EVSE is a 40A unit just because my previous car charged at 40A. On my eGolf the extra 10A is ignored. All it means is that I currently have an over engineered unit.

 

[BarryMW]

Here is my setup.
In my Main panel I have a 60Amp breaker feeding out to a Sub panel.
The Sub panel has two 50Amp breakers, each feeding a Juicebox 40A 10KW Pro.

The 60Amp breaker in the Main panel is only able to pass 48Amps continuously (60Ax80%=48A) , so the two Juicebox Pro EVSEs are programmed never to exceed this 48Amp combined value. If both are charging they go 24Amps each.

This programming allows a single EVSE to utilize up to its full 40Amp rating if the other is not charging at that time.
Unlike some dual public chargers that share current, full current capability is returned to a Juicebox as soon as it becomes available. I've seen public dual EVSEs where just having a non-charging car on the other port will reduce the current on the operational one.

Oh and YES, I have seen 32A, but I expect this is not highly accurate/revenue grade metering.
Maybe A/C was running, I don't recall.

Point is... you can't charge an E-Golf at the full 7.2KWh on a 30Amp circuit that originates "from around the back of the house" across who knows what gauge of wire. Tripping the EVSE/Car due to voltage drop would not surprise me. Using the VW phone app to drop the current would be a good test. It would also foster trust in the Car and EVSE combination before investing in an expensive new circuit from the rear of the house.

All the best

Barry

 

[GlennD]

The JuiceBox is very inaccurate. It is convenient but do not count on it. Just use it for comparison purposes.

 

[GlennD]

Here is my setup.
In my Main panel I have a 60Amp breaker feeding out to a Sub panel.
The Sub panel has two 50Amp breakers, each feeding a Juicebox 40A 10KW Pro.

The 60Amp breaker in the Main panel is only able to pass 48Amps continuously (60Ax80%=48A) , so the two Juicebox Pro EVSEs are programmed never to exceed this 48Amp combined value. If both are charging they go 24Amps each.

This programming allows a single EVSE to utilize up to its full 40Amp rating if the other is not charging at that time.
Unlike some dual public chargers that share current, full current capability is returned to a Juicebox as soon as it becomes available. I've seen public dual EVSEs where just having a non-charging car on the other port will reduce the current on the operational one.

Oh and YES, I have seen 32A, but I expect this is not highly accurate/revenue grade metering.
Maybe A/C was running, I don't recall.

Point is... you can't charge an E-Golf at the full 7.2KWh on a 30Amp circuit that originates "from around the back of the house" across who knows what gauge of wire. Tripping the EVSE/Car due to voltage drop would not surprise me. Using the VW phone app to drop the current would be a good test. It would also foster trust in the Car and EVSE combination before investing in an expensive new circuit from the rear of the house.

All the best

Barry

The car sets the charging max. The JuiceBox may be 40A but that just allows the car to set it max at 30A. The rest is ignored.

The JuiceBox was initially rated at 60A. They got away with it because no car would draw that much. The car sets the rate not the EVSE. My 2012 Leaf only took 16A at 240VAC so using it on a JuiceBox would leave a lot of excess capacity but it would work fine at 16A.

 

[JoulesThief]

Here is my setup.
In my Main panel I have a 60Amp breaker feeding out to a Sub panel.
The Sub panel has two 50Amp breakers, each feeding a Juicebox 40A 10KW Pro.

The 60Amp breaker in the Main panel is only able to pass 48Amps continuously (60Ax80%=48A) , so the two Juicebox Pro EVSEs are programmed never to exceed this 48Amp combined value. If both are charging they go 24Amps each.

This programming allows a single EVSE to utilize up to its full 40Amp rating if the other is not charging at that time.
Unlike some dual public chargers that share current, full current capability is returned to a Juicebox as soon as it becomes available. I've seen public dual EVSEs where just having a non-charging car on the other port will reduce the current on the operational one.

Oh and YES, I have seen 32A, but I expect this is not highly accurate/revenue grade metering.
Maybe A/C was running, I don't recall.

Point is... you can't charge an E-Golf at the full 7.2KWh on a 30Amp circuit that originates "from around the back of the house" across who knows what gauge of wire. Tripping the EVSE/Car due to voltage drop would not surprise me. Using the VW phone app to drop the current would be a good test. It would also foster trust in the Car and EVSE combination before investing in an expensive new circuit from the rear of the house.

All the best

Barry

The car sets the charging max. The JuiceBox may be 40A but that just allows the car to set it max at 30A. The rest is ignored.

The JuiceBox was initially rated at 60A. They got away with it because no car would draw that much. The car sets the rate not the EVSE. My 2012 Leaf only took 16A at 240VAC so using it on a JuiceBox would leave a lot of excess capacity but it would work fine at 16A.

Was it rated 60 amps because the relay contacts were rated for 60 amps? Or the gauge of the wire internally? What is limiting the amps now to 40 amps, assuming you could hardwire it in to a 80 or 100 amp dedicated circuit?

 

[miimura]

The car sets the charging max. The JuiceBox may be 40A but that just allows the car to set it max at 30A. The rest is ignored.

The JuiceBox was initially rated at 60A. They got away with it because no car would draw that much. The car sets the rate not the EVSE. My 2012 Leaf only took 16A at 240VAC so using it on a JuiceBox would leave a lot of excess capacity but it would work fine at 16A.

The JuiceBox now has programming that will allow you to configure a group of EVSE to have a maximum total current draw. The new Tesla Wall Connector also has this feature. The EVSE will reduce the pilot signal to the car to limit how much it can take from the wall at that moment. Cars will follow the pilot signal up and down as conditions change with these more advanced EVSEs.

In order for an EVSE to properly have a certain current rating, every component from the wall to the car must be rated high enough. That includes the internal wiring, the contactor/relay, the cable to the car and the J1772 handle and pins. When you install it, you must also ensure that the breaker and wiring from the breaker to the EVSE are properly sized.

 

[jeffy1021]

I also purchased this EVSE on ebay and it has worked flawlessly so far. The solar installer helped me install a 14-50 receptacle (50A breaker) and I made my own 14-50 to 6-50 adapter cable using 8/3 SOOW cord. I am able to charge my e-golf at the full 7.3kW rate. The instructions actually tell you to use a 40 amp breaker.