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Thanks for the link. $50 is better than nothing!

I believe it's A19 on this list sandwiched underneath the high voltage components. There are heavy gauge low voltage cables coming out of it under a black plastic cover nearest the charger. (Edit)Note: those cables (1) are described as "high voltage cables" here but I checked with a voltmeter...

I summoned some google-fu and found this: So... more like 200 amps! :)

Since the previous post, I've had the same problem as you describe. Trying to force start a charge fixes it for me, at least while plugged in.

I spoke with car-net and they claimed lock and unlock were premium features that should have ended after 3 months. The nice lady said it was a "glitch" that we were able to do it until now (after the 3 month trial expired) and that it's also a glitch that the car-net website still allows the...

Mine was swapped out early on to an LED one. It's 42mm festoon type bulb and a little tricky to get out unless you know how it's removed. Here's a video I found showing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lENU0MKVW3I

You will need to crack another window. This is a problem that has grown in the auto industry as aerodynamics have improved. The technical term is Helmholtz resonance. Here's an article I found...

These batteries cost less than 50 cents/ea when bought in packs of 12 and are easy to swap. For the convenience KESSY offers, it doesn't seem like big deal to me. Also, you can store the key away from the car to preserve battery life. Otherwise they're "shaking hands" over and over. Not sure...

Perhaps instant-on lights are more "attention grabbing" but in our car at least the CHMSL is already LED.

Might be the active grill shutters doing their thing. You will be able to see them moving behind the lower grille.

Glad to help. I went ahead and made a video to show how it fits in: https://vid.me/SOu4

Here's where the tool kit goes, with the plastic trim piece set to the side so it's easier to see:

Should be fine, I believe the DC-DC step down converter has similar output to a standard alternator. Keep in mind the 12v battery is charged only while the car is driving or powered in "ready" mode and whenever the HV battery is being charged.

Yes, there are two positions for the blade fuse. Yours is in the lower position, enabling the 12v outlets (front & hatch) to be powered constantly. Here is a rough depiction: | - Switched +12v | - Ground | - Constant +12v

Admittedly I make some assumptions with the most efficient speed, so bear with me as I explain my thought process - some German e-Golf (here at 5m28s), not sure if this is pre-production or otherwise, lists instantaneous consumption in kW. This car shows 0.3 kW load at rest in "ready" mode which...

~18 mph for 8 mi/kWh (steady state on flat, smooth tarmac with no wind at 72f with no A/C or other accessories) :geek: source

I have the one in my signature. It works well for a 2016 SE with its slow 15 amp charger. I use the car to control charging times as the EVSE has no features beyond indicator lights. At $299 it was cheaper than many comparable second-hand units on craigslist. Recommended only if you have an SE...

We need a way to read the battery's actual temperature(s) over the OBD port to know what ambient temps risk the car limiting power

Charging on circuits shared with other devices (not recommended).

I think this noise comes from the brake master cylinder. It's fairly quiet but since the master cylinder is mounted on the firewall the sound enters the cabin.