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Do you really have 1.2 kW chargers over there??

The range estimate is based on a weighted average consumption. If I remember correctly, it's over last 30 km or so. Meaning if you drove more economically before charging the range will be longer.

When you get the seat heaters you should see the power they are rated at. Normally they should have about 50W at full power. And when your butt is warm they don't use anything. So, I wouldn't be worried about the energy consumption. Just go ahead. It really helps comfort. If I could, I'd...

What information could we possibly get with just the phone for logging?

That's a real no-brainer. And I simply can't understand VW using 2025 in the first place. The only difference in the batteries is 0.7 mm thickness. The battery cover has 2 small ridges" keeping the battery in place. Just cut down ½-1 mm from them and the bigger battery fits. It's a little tricky...

My batteries lasted about 2 years. Modified the key to take 2032 instead of 2025. ~50% more energy. And I practically never lock my car overnight. No issues from that.

I would actually want the car a bit lower but not stiffer. Stock VW springs would be the easiest as I wouldn't need to get an approval for them . Everything else is much more hassle. Did anyone try stock GTI springs?

I bought the security & service package. With that I can see everything needed. Also do some schduling I think. I only use it as interface to Home Assisstant. With that I can program the charging just as I like.

I'd say $100/kWh is not realistic. For that price I would buy. Already to get the original for my house. Another issue not mentioned here is; how easily (size) can you fit a bigger battery? From the specs the new sounded to be same energy density and this probably means it would be as much...

Unfortunately the numbers in the graphs are hard to read. But if you look very thoroughly, you will see that the difference in efficiency isn't that big. Totally unlike IC engines. Graph C (Nissan Leaf) is easiest to read and you'll see that the efficiency is between 94 and 97% in most...

Update to last post. Needed the garage again today and moved the car out. High voltage still the same but now the car advised me to charge the low voltage battery. And additional information, the temp has been pretty steady just above freezing point. 0-10 C.

My car has been standing in the garage now for ~3 months. It was moved once when the garage was needed for something else. Battery is now at ~80% and it was not charged in between.

You don't have the ID.3 over there? It's quite nice to drive but the interior (dash) is not nice and the UI is horrible (as is the Golf 8)

Not a bad idea at all IMHO. Especially when it's bloody cold like now (-20 C), that's a good quick and dirty solution.

I will try if the new software works. I have read reports in both directions. If it works it will also be needed for the home automation to know the charge level of the battery.

I tried the e-manager. If I would leave every day the same time, I'm sure I'd use it. But my driving is random times and it should be remote access to work for me. Charging I do according to electricity price so this is not a constant time either.

I had a weird case concerning carplay. My car has it but didn't work when I bought the car. USB didn't see the phone at all. It was still under warranty and the dealer found it had a wrong (not faulty) USB slot. It did charge but not transfer data. Can't understand how it's possible but now it...

In summer I don't need heating or cooling. So, no power going there. Winter usually -5 C (-15 .. +5). No pre-heating and car is standing out in the cold. I don't really mind the consumption. Driving is still almost for free, and I can do with the short range.

My range drops to about half from summer to winter. ~300 to 150 km. - Cabin heating, seat heating - Battery is cold - Rolling and aero losses are bigger

My carplay wasn't working when I got the car. The USB was charging but not sending or receiving data. They installed a new USB on warranty.